Khaosan Road: Times are changing

By William Sparrow
September 13, 2007

PR or PG (Promotion Girls) are making waves on Khaosan Road. Tiger Beer Thai girl looks for customers on the road.
PR or PG (Promotion Girls) are making waves on Khaosan Road. Tiger Beer Thai girl looks for customers on the road.
Bangkok - Guidebooks and weary travelers hefting backpacks down Khaosan Road have long sung the praises of this stopping point as a layover on the way to paradise. The road, and indeed much of the adjacent area in Bangalamphu district of Bangkok, have long catered to budget-conscious backpacking travelers that arrive en masse. Yet as time and development relentlessly drive forward, the backpackers are finding themselves in a changing environment.

Food vendors pushing their carts of cheap eats, an impromptu bar set up on the curb serving a full range of drinks for about half of what the established bars would charge, and brisk trade in a variety of garments are all still there. But businesses are closing and being replaced by more upmarket establishments. Approaching a street vendor, one finds that his or her price seems to have taken an upward spike as well.

Economically speaking, one could just write it off as an upturn. But looking closer and talking to vendors, one finds that "proximity" and "competition" have a lot to do with it.

As the newer, swankier and terribly less affordable bars, restaurants and other businesses have popped up, it has given the old mainstay vendors, shops and guesthouses the opportunity to re-evaluate their pricing, in many cases leading them to decide that prices can increase. They are still priced well below the upper-class establishments, so they maintain their competitive foothold.

For now business continues to boom, so everyone is generally happy. Except, possibly, for the experienced budget traveler who finds himself digging deeper into his money belt to make ends meet.

The Boom-Boom of the Boom

By and large, Khaosan has been ignored by the sex industry, until now. In the past a wayward but well-informed traveler might be in the know that by going to a bar like Gulliver's at the Samsen Road end of Khaosan he might cross paths with a keen freelance girl looking for some action.

Five years back, other than Gulliver's, the only establishment that had a range of freelancers was Buddy Beer Lounge. The problem with Buddy's is that it was and is priced outside the average traveler's budget, both for beer and the company of a lady.

Other freelancers roamed about Khaosan and the only other notable stopping point was Khaosan Center - a guesthouse, bar, restaurant, and pool hall all rolled into one. They are still there, of course, because of a tried and true formula of attracting customers - but the prices are on an upswing.

With the increasing prices along today's Khaosan Road, more pristine entertainment and accommodation venues are dealing with the influx of another type of entrepreneur. Women working as PGs (promotion girls) are now quite common compared with years past.

PGs are usually exceptionally attractive, and it is their job to stand outside a particular bar and reel punters inside. They will often follow up with a cute, cooing and flirtatious bid to get you to buy the product that they are the PG for (they make a few baht based on sales). The girls are often paid a basic salary to support their commission-based work.

Recently the number of PGs on Khaosan has increased, and the bars employing them have begun to dominate the well-heeled-punters market. On a recent visit, a PG grabbed my hand and led me to her bar. With her tiny and amazingly tight Tiger Beer ensemble, it was hard to dismiss her promotional technique.

Led into the bar and seated with her, I made her day by purchasing a Tiger beer. Then she asked if I would buy her a drink. I agreed, if for no other reason than it appeared she could use some extra cash to buy a pair of panties.

The price was astonishing - okay, not as bad as a night out in Hong Kong or New York, but still not what a veteran of Khaosan Road might expect. I took stock of the people in the bar; it was surprisingly empty compared with the first few times I went there years ago. But what it had lost in volume it had made up in price.

I also could not help but notice that Pla the PG hadn't moved on; she was slowly enjoying her drink and her hand was headed north along my thigh.

Usually PGs get the customer, try to push a certain drink - maybe ask for a lady's drink, which cost a bit more to cover her commission - and then move on to the next prospective punter. So the attention she was providing was unusual.

Her motives were quickly revealed. Pla was, of course, a good, all-around salesperson, and was offering herself should I feel in the market for companionship. As equations began to fill my head, balancing monetary calculations and the proximity of the Thai wife, I was relieved when Pla excused herself.

"You want beautiful girls, better prices, head to Gulliver's," the bartender said, having obviously taken much more of an interest in the conversation than I had thought.

"Why? How much is it here?" I asked.

"Four hundred baht bar fine, then maybe 2,000 for the girl. Short time, long time up to the girl," he answered.

That added up to US$75, which seemed expensive for this neighborhood. In fact, it was more expensive than making your way to Soi Cowboy, Nana or Patpong, Bangkok's more notorious sexual marketplaces, and finding a girl yourself. This was shrugged off by the barman: "PG girls are better than sex workers," he said. "Have better time."

Back to the Boom

The changing business environment is driving much of the other changes being experienced on Khaosan Road. Once the haven for budget farangs (foreigners) backpacking their way across Asia, this required stop is pricing itself out of the market for the people who helped to create it.

Almost a quarter of Khaosan Road on its northern side has been leveled to make way for new construction. Conversations with cops, longtime vendors and Thais shed no light on what this project will ultimately be. Nonetheless the magnitude of the project and real estate the developers have acquired to undertake the project would seem to indicate something grand.

It doesn't matter if this is to be the Four Seasons Khaosan (which it won't be, of course) or if it is the usual array of Thai-style buildings accommodating various new guesthouses, restaurants and bars. The effect will be the same - prices will rise all around.

The other booming trade is, of course, the boom-boom trade. If the sex industry continues to seep into the fringes of this former backpacker haven, this too will affect prices and the social demographic of Khaosan.

Pricing yourself out of the market that made you famous or degenerating into another red-light district - while hoping for a more upwardly mobile customer - will only result in ostracizing the core tourist demographic. Backpackers on a budget already have a few choices for a night out on the town - they are called Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza.

The backpacker district of Khaosan can improve itself while adhering to the principles and demographics that made it is a "must stop" venue without catering to or embracing the sex industry or allowing new developments to price it out of the market.

But the question now is: "Will it?"

Copyright 2007 Asian Sex Gazette.


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